Today I spend most of the day at the National Historic Trails Interpretive Center. While you could cruise through this in an hour or two, it really deserves more than such a superficial glance. To do this place justice, you need to take off your watch and take yourself back in time. To get you in the mood, there are little tiles inlaid in the entry pavement with quotes from people who travelled the Oregon, California, Mormon or Pony Express trails. Read more →
Sunday July 7, 2013, 68 miles (109 km) – Total so far: 2,670 miles (4,298 km)
Throughout Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota, strangers often asked me if I carried a gun. Interestingly, Wyoming folks never ask me this. I assume it’s because they assume that I do. Well, this morning I could have used a gun. Not for personal protection of course, but just to humanely put a pronghorn out of its misery. Read more →
Monday July 8, 2013, 67 miles (108 km) – Total so far: 2,737 miles (4,405 km)
This old road used to be US 185 from 1926-1936. From 1936 to 1956, it was US 87. In 1956, parts of it disappeared under the new I-25. However, parts of it remained US 87 until the mid-1980s when all sections of I-25 were finally completed.
This old road, the Yellowstone Highway, still carries local traffic and an occasional bicycle tourist. It is designated WY 319 from I-25 Exit 100 to Orin. Between Orin and Douglas, it doesn’t even get a highway number. I enjoy its winding ways and its steep grade – not every road needs to blast through the landscape like an interstate. Read more →
The wrong time of year: Guernsey to Guernsey State Park
Tuesday July 9, 2013, 12 miles (20 km) – Total so far: 2,750 miles (4,425 km)
The names cover the cliff-face from the base to… however high a human can clamber. There’s modern-day graffiti covering older names, but the Oregon Trail era names stand out with their elegant letters and script. This, Register Cliff, was one of the famous landmarks on the Oregon Trail – a place where emigrants stopped to carve their names in the soft rock. Read more →
Where is my tailwind?: Guernsey State Park to Torrington
Wednesday July 10, 2013, 47 miles (75 km) – Total so far: 2,797 miles (4,501 km)
My watch alarm goes off. Ugh. I ignore it.
Then the little voice that inhabits my head says, “C’mon Em, GET UP. You know it’s going to be hot today.”
I respond, “It’s still dark. Just a little more sleep. Pleease.”
Little voice is having none of it, “C’mon Em, GET UP. You know you’re going to have a strengthening headwind all day. AND you’re going to stop for a few hours along the way. GET UP.” Read more →
Thursday July 11, 2013, 48 miles (77 km) – Total so far: 2,844 miles (4,577 km)
What to do when it’s 104F in Gering, Nebraska?
First, get on the road at first light while the puddles and humidity from last night’s thunderstorms still linger. Hit the state line, already sweating, just as the sun makes its way above the horizon.
Back into Nebraska. I left Torrington at first light. You know it’s going to be hot today when I’m sweating this much at dawn.
Scottsbluff National Monument from the west.
Second, get the 45 miles out of the way to get to Scottsbluff by 8.30am. Find a fast-food breakfast. Consume most of your calories for the day now, before it gets too hot to want to eat. Note: the green chile breakfast burritos at Taco Johns aren’t too bad.
Third, find the bike path to Scottsbluff National Monument. Ride through some swanky golf course neighbourhoods to get to the path. Don’t build up too much speed on the path. It has huge, jarring cracks and a very rough surface. But there are several locals out using it – good stuff!
Scottsbluff National Monument from the ride in on the bike path.
Fourth, go in the visitor’s centre. The exhibits are all from about 1960-something. But, there is a refrigerated water fountain! Drink, drink, drink! Drink some more! Refill the Camelback with COLD water!
Fifth, get a personal lift and tour from a ranger to the top of the bluff since bikes aren’t allowed on the road between 9am and 5pm. Doug is full of information. He informs you that the crops you passed on your way into Scottsbluff are all sorts of beans. The area grows five different types – and you just thought they were soybeans. He also tells you the whole history of the monument, including the CCC camps, and what to look for as you hike back down. He is from the Black Hills and tells you all the sad gossip about Sturgis and how the creator of the Crazy Horse Monument was a very dishonest crook but how his family has turned that all around and does very good things for the Sioux peoples.
Bikes aren’t allowed on the road to the summit after 9am. So I get a lift to the top, and an extensive personal narrative of the history of the area, from the volunteer ranger.
Enjoy the hike back down. Looking east you can even see Chimney Rock, another Oregon Trail landmark. Enjoy looking at all of the rock layers – the volcanic ash layers are easy to pick out here.
Scottsbluff National Monument.The hike back down has great views and allows me to get a good look at all of the different rock layers.I liked the look of the snake on that sign. I also note that the pet owner is holding a very big bag in proportion to the size of the dog.
Sixth, go for a short hike along the path through Mitchell Pass. This was the route of the Oregon Trail from the 1850s. Conclude your visit by 11 am since it’s already into the low 90s F.
You can hike along the Oregon Trail below the bluff.I’ve really enjoyed my visit here – but it’s time to go find some shade or air conditioning. It is 11am and getting very hot already.
Seventh, go work your bike tourer charm on the city RV park caretaker who at first says he has no sites because of the town festival but comes around and not only gives you a spot to pitch the tent but tells you to ask if you need anything, including a ride wherever you want to go.
Eighth, spend some time at McDonalds with a large iced tea and enough refills to give you kidney stones. Chat to a few people, including a woman in her 80s who thinks it’s absolutely wonderful that you are out touring. She says, “life is meant for adventure, keep living life like you are and you will have no regrets when you get to my age”. Invite her to sit with you so you can hear her stories – she’s got to have some great ones with that attitude. Sadly, she is already late getting to her friend’s home so can’t stay.
Next, head over to the the library to revise your ride route while sitting in air-conditioning. It’s forecast to be over 100 F in this area for the next week. You want to get back to higher elevations. Agate Fossil Beds are not going to happen this trip.
Ninth, go grab a big fountain drink and then hang in the shade and wind at the park for the rest of the afternoon and early evening.
After spending a few hours at the library in A/C figuring out a way to reconfigure my route so I can get out of the heat forecasted for the next week, I head over to a park and relax in the wind and shade.
Finally, end the day with a funnel cake from the fair at the property next door to the RV park. Reflect on what a great day it’s been and how much you love bike touring!
The view from my tent site. I’m here during Oregon Trail Days and the fair is being held on the property just behind the city RV park.Yum! I wander over to the fair looking for an elephant ear. I find a funnel cake which is almost as good – the green guys are totally into it.
Friday July 12, 2013, 68 miles (110 km) – Total so far: 2,913 miles (4,688 km)
With the noise of the fair, the lights of the cars shining on the tent when leaving the parking lot next door, and the late night assault of sprinklers on the tent fly, I think I get about three hours of sleep. So it’s a groggy start down Highway 71 this morning. Read more →
Oh, Cheyenne, how bike unfriendly you are!: Pine Bluffs to Cheyenne
Saturday July 13, 2013, 46 miles (73 km) – Total so far: 2,958 miles (4,761 km)
Cheyenne was never in my original plans. However, the heat has forced me out of Nebraska and back to higher elevations. Riding south from Gering to Kimball and then over to Cheyenne made the most sense of all of my options.
So this morning, I stand outside the library in Pine Bluffs to pick up some wifi to book a motel room for two nights. If I’m going to ride through the place, I might as well take a day to see it. The only problem seems to be the hotels. They are either really expensive or have horrid reviews. In the end, I book an okay-priced La Quinta with only a few horror stories. Read more →
Of meth labs and politicians: Cheyenne to Cheyenne
Sunday July 14, 2013
Morning brings grey skies and cool temperatures to Cheyenne. My CSU friend heads home but we’re planning to meet up again in Laramie if all goes well. He offers me a lift if I need to go anywhere, but I decline.
A bit later I head out to see the town and stock up on groceries. If there is a nice part of Cheyenne, I never find it. The downtown has had a facelift, and there are some restaurants and nice sculptures, particularly as you near the state capitol building. But this decent downtown core is surrounded by scummy areas. Read more →
Snagging the primo campsite: Cheyenne to Curt Gowdy State Park
Monday July 15, 2013, 27 miles (44 km) – Total so far: 2,985 miles (4,805 km)
It’s tricky, and even requires the use of my feet to open doors, but I manage to get two bowls of runny oatmeal, two tubs of yogurt, an apple and a banana from the breakfast room on the first floor up to my hotel room on the second floor, all in one trip. Some of it goes in my panniers for later, some of it goes in my stomach right now. Read more →
