Wide Open – Days 20-22 – Lake Mungo

12-14 June 2026 – 44 kms – Lake Mungo National Park

Barkindji, Mutthi Mutthi and Ngiyampaa Country

Hundreds of thousands of years ago, the Willandra Lakes System formed in a climate much colder and wetter than today. The large river filled about 17 basins with water from the mountains to the east. The levels of the lakes fluctuated with the climate over 100,000 years or so.

Around 50,000 years ago, First Nations peoples arrived, the ancestors of the Barkindji, Mutthi Mutthi and Ngiyampaa, and lived in the area. Around 18,000 years ago, as the climate shifted again, the lakes dried up and the First Nations people adapted to a more nomadic lifestyle that continued until squatters and pastoralists arrived in the area in the mid-1800s. In the late 1800s, drought, overgrazing and rabbits removed the groundcover and accelerated erosion of 30-km-long lunette on the eastern shore of Lake Mungo.

Then, a geomorphologist named Jim Bowler was studying the formation of the lakes and their lunettes in the late 1960s and early 1970s. While wandering around the Lake Mungo lunette, he came across part of a skull. Archeologists were called in. This was the discovery of Mungo Lady. Her remains showed evidence of cremation and is recognised as the world’s oldest evidence of this ritual.

A couple years later Mungo Man was stumbled upon. He was buried in a ritual manner with ochre and his hands folded across his lap. The remains were subsequently dated to 42,000 years ago which upended white Australia’s understanding of how long First Nations peoples have been in Australia. At the time it was thought they’d been here maybe 15,000 years. Some of the tools found here have been dated even older than the human remains.

In the early 1980s, Lake Mungo and the Willandra Lakes Region was declared a World Heritage area by UNESCO for its outstanding natural and cultural heritage. World Heritage status provides extensive and unique protections to the area. And all that science and political declaration confirmed what the First Nations people already knew – their ancestors had been here for a very, very long time. Since the Dreamtime.

And that is the very quick summary story of Lake Mungo and its significance.

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Wide Open – Day 19 – Time and scale

11 June 2026 – 109 kms – Buronga to Lake Mungo

Barkindji, Muthi Muthi, Ngiyampaa Country

The pedalling begins. In the dark as usual. There is plenty of traffic a bit before 6am. Just because it’s still pitch black doesn’t mean you don’t need to get to work for a 6am start. But everyone gives me plenty of room on the road – moreso than they even do during the day. I’m comfortable with the dark starts now.

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Wide Open – Day 18 – Cycling curriculum vitae

10 June 2026 – 22 kms – Mildura, VIC to Buronga, NSW

Barkindji, Latji Latji, Muthi Muthi Country

I don’t sleep well. The rain forecast is concerning. Not knowing if I’m going to be able to ride out to Lake Mungo or not weighs on the back of my mind. If it’s not safe to head out there, I won’t go. I will take risks, but not stupid ones.

Yet, wanting to visit there and ride my bike there was the spark for this whole trip. I’ve wanted to visit for nearly as long as I’ve lived in Oz (25 years). So it would be really disappointing if I have to bypass the national park.

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Wide Open – Days 16-17 – All the errands

8-9 June 2026 – 0 kms – Mildura

Latji Latji, Barkindji, Nyeri Nyeri, Ngintait Country

The to-do list is composed. There is food restocking to do. There are scripts to fill. There is bike cleaning and maintenance checks to do. There are people to ring. And there are sights to see. We fill the two days in Mildura with touristy sightseeing and all the errands and purchases on the to-do list – this is the last town of any size for the next 11 days.

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Wide Open – Day 15 – Tough trees

7 June 2026 – 74 kms – Lake Hattah to Mildura

Latji Latji, Barkindji, Ngintait, and Nyeri Nyeri Country

In these cold, wet mornings when the tent drips with dew and condensation, it is hard to imagine this area in summer. It is very hot and dry here. It is routinely above 35C and annual rainfall is below 300mm (11 inches). Ouyen reached a record-shattering temperature of 48.9C (120F) on 27 January this year, tying with Hopetoun as the highest temperature ever recorded in Victoria’s history. This surpassed its previous record of 48.8C on Black Saturday in 2009.

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Wide Open – Day 14 – Happy honks

6 June 2026 – 92 kms – Mittyack to Lake Hattah

Wadi Wadi, Nyeri Nyeri, Wergaia, Latji Latji, Jari Jari Country

There is a point in every tour that the rhythm of the road becomes established. You wake up one day and realise that you don’t have to go home soon and that this is more than just a short holiday taken from your annual leave. Your sleep, eat, ride routine has defined itself and your butt no longer hurts.

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Wide Open – Day 13 – Out the back of Mittyack

5 June 2026 – 96 kms – Swan Hill to Mittyack

Wamba Wamba, Wadi Wadi, Latji Latji, Ngintait, Nyeri Nyeri Country

The lush, soft grass and my closed cell foam pad create a luxurious mattress that I do not want to get up from. But up we get. At 5.15am. I have no idea how far we will ride today or how strong the wind will get. I have no idea where we’ll camp tonight. So let’s get going so we have as much daylight to work with as possible.

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Wide Open – Days 10-12 – The thumb twiddling

2-4 June 2026 – 16 kms – Swan Hill

Wamba Wamba and Wadi Wadi Country

So the question is: do you peel the band-aid off slowly or rip it off? Do you ease into a problem or jump straight in?

After I got to the motel on Monday, I noticed that there was a thorn stuck in the front tyre. There was no loss of tyre pressure. If I hadn’t seen the thorn, I wouldn’t know that there was going to be a puncture. The thorn was obviously stuck in the tube and plugging itself.

So, do I just ignore it and leave it there? Or do I pull the thorn out and fix the puncture while I have somewhere warm and dry to do it? Everyone knows the joys of roadside puncture repair.

So I pull the thorn out and the tyre goes quickly flat – accompanied by a great and dramatic hissing sound effect.

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