Into the great wide open – Introduction

The light at the end of the tunnel is growing brighter – and no, it’s not a train. We’re about to pop out at the end.

After a very busy, full-on year driving a 12-month project with more than 20 primary stakeholders to a very tight schedule, it’s just about finished. In eight working days spread over the next few weeks, I will finish the last of the reporting and tie up the final loose ends. Phew – it’s been massive. It’s been 18 months of work smooshed into 12.

I’m very proud of all that we’ve accomplished. I’ve delivered all project deliverables, plus significant bonus deliverables that were not part of the funding deed, on time and within budget. I’ve herded the cats, managed expectations and done so much liaison between stakeholders that I feel that my job title should have been Chief Liaison Officer instead of Project Manager.

Leading discussion of future disaster risk reduction priorities for the region with my partner council and government agency staff (they are the ones on their phones while everyone else is paying attention!).

There was only one hiccup along the way. The funding body changed the contribution rates we were supposed to use to keep track of our in-kind time in early July. Those rates meant we would not be able to meet our 25% contribution to the project and would be in breach of contract. I would lose the project… just after I had signed two consultant contracts worth a combined $300,000. I would have to let down my nine local government partners who were quite enthused about the project.

It was very stressful. I was about to lose a $650,000 contract I’d waited nine months to commence. So I spent days and days working through spreadsheets trying to figure out what parts of the project we could cut to reduce the contribution hours required. I tried to think of creative ways to meet requirements. I looked at the project and all the funding pieces in every out-of-the-box way I could think. It was so stressful that, at one point, I did not sleep for 48 hours straight.

I, and my fellow project managers at other regional orgs like mine across the state, continued negatiotations with the funding body. I continued pushing the project forward, hoping that I’d have the project so far along by the time a resolution was found, that they would not be able to pull the pin. Eventually, after two months of negotiations, we came to a compromise with the funding body that would allow the project to continue.

But all that stress… caused me a major relapse in health issues. I started not feeling great in August. I could not eat without pain. My digestion was poor. I had some of the same symptoms I had before the gallbladder came out. I was feeling quite shit by the last post here in September.

Then, at the beginning of October, the pain was so bad in my upper right quadrant that I could not really sit. I could only stand or lay down. I was puking up food daily. Then, after I could not keep any food down for three days straight, I went to Urgent Care, thinking I might have a stone in a bile duct.

Urgent Care sent me to the Emergency Department. I spent the day there high on endone answering work emails. At least I had no pain for the first time in 2.5 months. The abdominal ultrasound and CT scan came back ok. My bloods came back ok. They told me to go back to my GP and get a referral for a gastroscopy. I did. The wait time at the only gastroenterology clinic in town was 8 months. Just for an initial appt – not the actual procedure. I felt I might be dead by then. When I jumped through the hoops of the system last time, my gallbladder was ‘at imminent risk of rupture’ before I got treatment.

So I found a place in Melbourne that took any referral for any doctor and did not require an initial appointment. You could just rock up for a procedure. They could get me in quickly, but I needed to go on a Friday, Sat or Monday to make it as little inconvenience as possible for whatever friend would have to go with me to drive me home (they will not release you to take public transport).

Spot the problems with this AI image of a gastroscopy….

So it was another 3.5 weeks in terrible pain with little nutrition that would stay down before the procedure. I paid for it out-of-pocket, but after all of the Medicare rebates, it came to just $675 for the clinic, doctor, procedure and anaesthetist fees. That is cheaper than the gap fee/deductible that private insurance would have charged ($750), let alone all the yearly premiums. Go figure.

And finally, I have an answer for why digestion has been such a challenge since I contracted the vector-borne diseases in 2017. I have a lax distal sphincter due to low stomach acid (we know I’ve had that issue my whole life – just never an official diagnosis of it). But the gastroenterologist was also 98 percent sure I have moderate to severe gastroparesis. I had done all the appropriate fasting and drank one last 150 ml of water 5 hours before the procedure as instructed. 100mls of that water was still in my stomach after 5 hours. It should have been gone in about 20 minutes!

One of the causes of all this trouble – my tick-borne bartonella. Apparently, gastroparesis has a known association with vector-borne diseases due to the nerve damage caused by them.

So the gastro guy says I could get a gastric emptying study done to confirm this, but based on all of my symptoms that matched perfectly with the diagnosis, the water sitting in there long after it should have been gone, and my history of vector- borne illness, he said I could just save my money, go with that diagnosis and treat for it. He gave me a prescription for a scary medication whose side effects included “sudden death” (the drug forces your stomach to contract by working on certain receptors that also happen to be present in your heart) and a prescription for strong digestive enzymes.

There’s got to be something better than this that doesn’t potentially cause ‘sudden death’. Well, yes. High dose ginger, artichoke, gentian and dandelion root have no side effects and have been helping greatly with upper gut motility for me. Also ready to start experimenting with high-dose thiamine now that I’ve got the herb routine established. It’s all evidence-based with plenty of science behind it, but traditional western medicine won’t prescribe such simple, affordable things!

So I finally have answers. Now how to fix it without that scary drug. I immediately got in touch with my functional nutritionist. Yes, there are natural herbs that can help with upper motility without ‘sudden death’ side effects. Yes, the gut microbiome plays a role in gastroparesis. Yes, b-vitamins play a role and we know my levels dive-bomb with stress. There is a way forward.

So I’ve been working on all of this since January. I can say that I am vastly improved. I have no pain. My digestion is improving. The gastroparesis is now ‘mild’ instead of ‘moderate-severe’. I have no issues with nausea or puking. As the stress of the project concludes, the gastroparesis should back off even more. High does thiamine may help with the autonomic nervous system issues and nerve signalling that the vector-borne illness screwed up back in 2017.

So all of this means I can go for a bike ride. I will probably have to take about 500 grams of supplements with me, and mail some ahead, but I can eat and drink pretty well and should be able to meet the nutritional demands of a bike tour.

So I started planning a ride that could be done in winter. I quickly settled on a ‘national parks of far west NSW’ tour. That area gets ungodly hot with unspeakable numbers of flies in summer. In winter, the nights will be cold, but I prefer that hands-down (not swatting) to flies and heat.

And then, just as I really got into the planning, an unusual tropical low sunk south out of the tropics and sat over the area and dumped record-breaking rain. This is an area where roads, which are sand and clay, can close with just 5mm of rain. Most roads have causeways instead of bridges.

Look at the last two columns showing the amount of rain, and how much % of normal are those rain totals. This was for Feb.
Rain totals for March.

But roads are slowly reopening…. All those orange roads are now open to 4WDs. The blue ones are still closed. We need all those colours to go away and return to grey. And for the area not to get any more significant rain.

I’m feeling confident it’s do-able. So I’ve been sorting out gear.

I’ve seam-sealed the tent, put UV-guard on the fly. I’ve purchased a sleeping pad so I’ve got more R-value for cold and/or wet nights than just my old closed cell foam pad. I’ve ensured the pad fits in the tent. I’ve bought some more water carrying capacity since the distances between water sources out there is massive. I will put on a new rear tyre today and get the bike serviced after school holidays finish. I’ve cleaned the water filter. I’ll order a new powerbank soon since winter’s short days make solar power a bit too hard.

Sorting gear, letting the tent UV-Guard spray dry.
I’ve sewn up a koala hoodie for Verne to keep him warm and his head protected. I’ve modified an elf on the shelf jumpsuit.
I’m not a cutesy patootsie sort of person, but my gosh, that’s adorable.

Yes, it’s all coming together. I think this trip requires a lot of logistical consideration in the background but extreme flexibility as the days unfold. But I’m ready for it – the call of the road is always screaming at me in the back of my head. It is time to venture forth into the great unknown in those great wide open spaces of the west.

The national parks I’m wanting to tick off my bucket list include:

Mungo National Park

Kinchega National Park

Mutawindji National Park

Sturt National Park

Gundabooka National Park

Mt Grenfell Historic Site

The two that I’ve really been hanging out to see are Mungo and Mutawindji… but if you are already way the heck out there, why not go even further and check out the rest?

This map shows a potential route. I know it won’t end up like this, as I will have to go with the flow and determine do-ability based on local knowledge as we go. But here’s an idea at least:

When do we go?

Sometime in May.

Nigel and I are booked in to go for a rally car drive/ride (he’ll do some driving, I’m just signed up for a professional to fling me around on 4 hot laps) on 9 May near Sydney. But who knows if that will go ahead if fuel becomes more scarce and expensive than it already is.

I also need to pack up and clean my house. Lease ends 23 May but I plan to be gone before then.

When do we finish?

I’m meant to fly to America in early August (again, if jet fuel is a thing by then). So we need to be back by then.

I’m in America til late August. The plan upon my return home is to jump straight back on the bike and ride to Brisbane for a Jim Henson/Muppet exhibition. Then I will start making my way back south along the Great Dividing Range and hitting up more national parks on the way.

But that’s the outline of a plan. There might be a short shakedown ride around 23-26 April to figure out water bladder attachment points on the bike. There might not. We’re going super-flexo on this tour.

But the sky’s the limit. It’s time to head into the great wide open.

14 thoughts on “Into the great wide open – Introduction

  • Wow Em – what a year! When I read that “no sleep for 48 hours straight” I went uh-oh. Still, congrats on completing and delivering a monumental project. And congrats for getting a diagnosis that I hope will finally get you closer to an easier and healthier life. I look forward to following your tour.

    And yes, that look on Verne is def cutie-patootie.

    • Thank you – yes, it’s been a big year but I feel good in everything that got accomplished. There’s definitely going to be an adjustment to the rhythm of the road.

  • What a wonderful sounding trip. We cycled around the Mungo area. Stunning park and ‘fun’ sand! I hope all goes well with the gut stuff. Having a management plan sounds like a massive relief!

    • Thank you – I hope you and your partner are well and you are negotiating all the ins and outs of funding and contracts, too. Gov and academia aren’t all that different in that regard.

      Yes, I think the ‘cursing to kilometre’ ratio on this trip will be pretty high given all the sand, bulldust and sticky clay I’m going to encounter.

  • Hi Em,
    It is very good to hear your new tour is going ahead. If anyone can manage a chronic serious condition away from home it is you. You’ve been doing it all this time anyway without a name for it. Your spirit is uncrushable. Damn the insects.

    I googled a few of those national parks. They look sensational but remote. Pack your epirb.

    We all look forward to seeing you in August whenever you can manage the time for lunch. Be safe.

    Ken

    • Thanks, Ken. You are definitely the expert in managing health conditions while travelling. You are an inspiration all round. If the America trip happens, I’ll look forward to hearing your new stories. I should have a couple days in Denver so I look forward to catching up.

  • Job well done on diagnosing the digestive problem and choosing to fight it without the sudden death drug. Job well done in planning out an adventurous bike route and in outfitting yourself and Verne (Kermit too, I assume) for the tour. And job well done in successfully finishing up your actual job. And job well done in summarizing your last six months in one post. I’ll be anxious to read the next episode.

    • Thank you – you will be happy to know that Kermit has a comprehensive wardrobe since he fits “Ken doll” clothes, so he didn’t need any additions or upgrades. He tends to complain a bit less than the ectotherm, also.

  • Crikey trouble just keeps heading your way and you keep knocking it back !! Well done with the Project especially managing the changes leading to a possible breach of contract. “They” don’t care it lead you to 48 hours without sleep and a huge relapse. We do. But you sorted out both and conquered all – including not taking the ‘Sudden Death’ drug. I wonder what it feels like to be the Doctor prescribing such a thing. Did they have their fingers crossed?

    The bike and kit out and being sorted through looks promising. Soon you will be out on the road – and it can be bloody cold of a night out there in the west in winter. On one of our trips we visited Gundbooka. Yes, OK during the day, cold at night and very dry. Plus scenery I really enjoy. On the road in we pulled over while a truck attempted to get through a very soft area of sandy soil. It was a big truck doing very acrobatic things which needed to whole of the road but it got through.

    Our very best wishes for the next few weeks – hope all goes well and you can wind up the Project and clear the way for a US visit plus the riding you want to do.

    Tony and Sue.

    • Thanks, Tony.
      That domperidone drug is the ‘new’ one with fewer side effects…. When I read the insert and saw that ‘sudden death’ was a ‘possible’ side effect instead of ‘rare’, I said: no way. I did some googling, and though it did not sound like lots of people have died, lots of people have issues with it or it doesn’t do much. It’s also not really meant to be taken long-term. Luckily there are herbal prokinetics that are quite effective that you can take forever (I rely a bunch on ginger). It’s just about figuring out the right dosages so you don’t push everything through so fast that you don’t absorb any nutrients or don’t take enough and everything still just sits in your stomach. I’m going well with a routine… we’ll see what happens when I hit the road!

      I love the story of your trip to Gundabooka. I do anticipate plenty of sand, bull dust and sticky clay (if it’s beyond sticky, I’ll just wait). I have a very good sleeping bag -26C (-10C comfort rating) for the trip, plus the new Nemo sleeping pad that has an R-value of 5.4. Combine that with my normal sleeping pad at 1.4 and my puffy jacket, merino thermal and a rain jacket if really cold, and I think I should be okay. I never even had a second thought about camping in 0 to -2C weather just with my closed cell foam pad and a few layers on mountain trips in America, so I’m thinking I should be good down to -5C. I’ve never done it for two months straight though. I’ll be ready for a toasty summer warm-up in August with the America trip then!

      All the best to you and Sue and have fun on the ‘southern ride’ 🙂

  • Hi Emily, The other day, the other day my cyclometer said I hit 30 mph on a paved, slightly snaky downhill and I recalled that in one of your journals, you did 30 on gravel, so yeah, you know how to overcome barriers. What a lot of work and medical trauma you have endured! your proposed route, nearly touching queensland and south australia, is exotic to a resident of the northern hemisphere. best wishes for cooperative weather.

    • Hi Chuck
      Sorry for the very tardy reply. Just busy wrapping up work and plannning for the trip. I’m glad you had a chance to get a nice, curvy 30 mph downhill – that’s always fun and gives you a nice dopamine hit 🙂

      My proposed route is probably a little exotic, even to some Australians, but we’ll see what we can do – as long as I get to Mungo and Mutawindji National Parks, I’ll be happy. The rest will be a bonus – yes, send good thoughts for good weather out there!

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